Our 2018 summer roadtrip of Eastern Europe’s Dalmatian Coast began with a few flights from Cincinnati to Montenegro. Initially, I debated starting even further South in Albania but decided against it to keep the trip a bit more relaxed. Podgorica is a cute little city to spend a night en route to Kotor. Montenegro is a fantastic destination and I am already looking forward to making a trip back to experience more of this beautiful country. This country has a nice balance of nature recreation and historic architecture which in many cases even pair nicely. This place feels a little off the Western tourist’s radar which makes it feel like a hidden gem though it is quickly being developed. Hopefully this lovely place can retain it’s status as being a little off the grid, because the solitude is what made it feel very special.

EXPERIENCE

We had some trouble with our luggage in Montenegro, to the tune of 5 days delayed, which wasted several hours of our time while here. We spent our first evening exploring Porticga, grabbing some pizza and beers then listening to a local DJ on the main drag. We then began our road trip in the morning with a drive out to  Lake Skadar. The drive was very long and somewhat daunting as the route is a very long and windy one lane road. This lake is between Albania and Montenegro, we started with a stop at the Pavlova Strana Viewpoint near a closed down hotel, where we were the only people for miles. This is quite remarkable seeing as though this is very similar to Horseshoe Bend in the US, which we recently learned is swarmed with tourists snapping photos. We then hit the Visitor Center which is full of little boat trips and tourist gimmicks and does not provide much of a view of the lake at all, this can be skipped.

The drive continued to be narrow and slow as we crept through the hilly vineyards and bee farms to the Bay of Kotor. En route we stopped in a charming old town called Stari Bar for lunch and to check out a few popular beaches on the way. Next we headed back along the beach to Sveti Stefan Islet, which is fun to look at, but really just a private island hotel. Initial ambitious plans included an excursion to Lovcen National Park and Njegos Mausoleum, but with the second trip to the airport and luggage delay, we got a later start than planned, so skipped it. 

Once in the beautiful Bay of Kotor, we needed to do some shopping to cover our losses. After this we explored the Old Town which is incredibly charming and much less crowded than the similar construct in Dubrovnik. While here we also did the one hour hike up to the Castle Of San Giovanni to get an overview of the city from above– this is a little taxing but worth it. We also took a two our speed boat trip arranged through our Airbnb out to Perast and Our Lady of the Rocks. At only 10 Euros for a boat with only two other couples, this was a super nice way to see the bay and hit the major attractions without boarding the crowded ferry. 

EAT

Because of a lengthy luggage fiasco, we just had pizza for dinner near our hotel once we settled into Podgorica. Our hotel was situated on the main drag however, and it was the first night of the World Cup so we stayed out for a beer and music to take in the local scene a bit before heading to bed. In the morning we enjoyed an especially nice breakfast at the trendy restaurant in the Hemera Restoran where we stayed.. I would recommend this to anyone staying in town for it’s fresh squeezed orange juice and great decor. Other restaurants that caught by eye while planning were Lanterna Podgorica.

While road tripping, we stopped for a local lunch in Stari Bar at Restaurant Kaldrma. Here I really enjoyed the tomatoes and roasted eggplant. Once we got to Kotor we ventured into the old town for lunch at Konobra Scala Santa. Another famous place on my radar was Galion in the Bay of Kotor, though we did not have time to enjoy a meal there.

STAY

After arriving in Montenegro we just spent one quick night in Podgorica and stayed at the stylish Hotel Hemera. Our room here was quite smokey and the bathrooms were very dark, but otherwise this hotel is very nice. The room was in a perfect location near all the bars and restaurants (which did mean it was quite loud until 3AM) and had a fun mural above the bed. These rooms also have nice little private decks for catching some fresh air. Another perk of this hotel is the complimentary breakfast in the restaurant below.

In the Bay of Kotor, we had a fantastic Airbnb rental apartment which kept us on other side of the bay away from the hustle and bustle of the tourism. Here we had an incredible view for sunset and great access to the water from the piers at the base of the hill. I would highly recommend this location if you’re hoping for a little reprieve from the crowds.

Montenegro is a beautiful country and I hope is stays just as hidden away and idillic as it is now for years to come. I’d love to return here to visit the forests of the north and combine it with some time in Albania.