Tokyo
“Only in Japan” is a phrase anyone who has lived in Japan and is not from there with sarcastically utter at least once before departing. I spent a few days in Tokyo years ago back in 2010 and was lucky enough to return for a more complete visit in 2019. The first time I visited here I certainly had this same sense of culture shock. This culture shock differs from that of a developing country, and takes on a type of awe and admiration for something so foreign yet familiar.
Japan’s rich and isolated cultural legacy has created a modern culture that functions seamlessly, but is vastly different from other Western or Eastern societies. This is a truly special place, that I would encourage anyone to visit. On my first trip in 2010 I was here for work then ventured South to Shizuoka Prefecture to meet my cousin who was teaching English here. On my most recent trip I visited for pleasure with my husband and usual travel cohorts for a full filled week of playtime, Japanese dining and exploring nearby regions. I decided to update this blog post since it had been so long since I first visited.
EXPERIENCE
Tokyo is a paradox of totally modern fast pace with serene, subtle and quiet beauty. Arriving in Tokyo (especially if you land in Narita) you will need to take a long bus ride from the airport to get to the city or navigate the complex rail system like we did. Once there the public transit is great, and taxis are safe and available. We started out trip with a stay Shinjuku to soak in the wild nightlife. We did the Golden Gai District where we had drinks in miniature bars two nights in a row and hit the karaoke scene pretty hard. We checked out the Robot Restaurant and many of the other strange attractions in the city’s Red Light District. Here you can find kareoke, Vampire Bars and Robot Cafes.
If you’re up early, check out the Tsukiji Fish Market. I recommend doing this the first day you arrive, since you will be jet-lagged, and arrival time at this attraction is around 4 or 5 am. This market is not easy to navigate, and no one will stop for you to ask questions or cross the aisles, but it is a sight to see. All the fishing boats auctioning off their catches. One of the most famous, being the tuna auctions, where humongous fish are auctioned off for thousands of dollars to restaurants and for export. On my first trip I did this properly and this time we went late and simply enjoyed the now more permanent surrounding food stalls. Rumor has it the market is in the process of moving, so be sure to confirm the new location before you wake up early to check it out.
I was in Tokyo both times during February, so my experience of it was quite cold. The cities most spectacular gardens were not in their prime and only the most eager of cherry blossoms were beginning to bloom, and I believe they were actually plum blossoms. Regardless, walking the city and these outdoor venues is the highlight of the city. The Tokyo Imperial Palace is a nice place to see, be sure to walk the East Garden, even off season these gardens were quite lovely. This park is large and somewhat anti-climactic but worth checking out if you’re looking to fill time.
Also check out the city’s many temples and gardens. Highlights include Senso-ji Buddhist Temple, Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, and Yoyogi Park. Nearby Senso-ji are lots of shops, vendors and restaurants selling anything imaginable in an area called Hachioji. If time allows, visit Meiji Jingu Shrine, Tokyo’s most famous Shinto shrine. Here beautiful Sake barrels line the walkways to add to the peaceful ambiance. This park has an impressive 40 foot tori gate, that is worth a look. Another impressive sight with a more modern feel is Shibuya Crossing, one of the world’s busiest and most chaotic pedestrian intersections. We spend our night in the Box Hotel in this area as well and it’s a lively area to walk around and shop more mainstream stores.
Be sure to visit Harajuku for some people watching and to stroll the windy streets of strange shops. Eccentric takes on a flavor completely unique to Japan in this iconic corridor of Tokyo. This is a place fringe culture thrives and congregates to flaunt for spectators. We had a great time snacking here on crepes and cheese sticks and loved exploring the shops. The Ura-Hara back streets are full of fun shops and eccentric places to explore Cat Bars and Hedgehog Cafes. While in Tokyo, even if the Sunday morning Harajuku Girl craze has subsided, be sure to make time for this part of town.
This trip we visited the island of the future called Odaiba this trip and checked out the not so impressive National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation. This musem felt a bit outdated but was a way to spend time indoors on a cold day. We also hit the Meguro Parasitological Museum which was small but moderately interesting if you enjoy seeing preserved parasite specimens. We visited two super special digital art experiences while in Tokyo this trip. Both were created by TeamLab. The first was the pop up experience that involves water and was my favorite since we visited when it was not very crowded. This one was called TeamLab Planets. We also went to the Mori Digital Art Museum in Odaiba for the permanent exhibit called TeamLab Borderless which was much bigger and almost like a choose your own adventure labyrinth. These are worth the wait and must do’s while in Tokyo right now.
Roppongi was another great neighborhood we spent time in this trip. This part of town is super trendy and famous for fancy shopping and the Roppongi Art Triangle. This neighborhood is upscale but home to some nice restaurants and feels approachable if you’re looking to escape the chaos for a bit.
There is so much to do in Tokyo, I feel like this list could never be complete. One day I’d love to see a proper Sumo Match in Ryogoku, witness the cherry blossoms, catch the over top view from the Tokyo Sky Tree and make a day trip to Kyoto. This is such a special city and I look forward to experiencing it again in another ten years.
STAY
On my first visit I stayed in Ginza at a major hotel. On this recent trip things got much more interesting. We stayed for three nights at the beginning of the trip at an Airbnb in the Shinjuku Red Light District. This part of town is super fun for some wild nights out. We did some great karaoke singing and explored the land of the neon sun. Our Airbnb worked great for our group and allowed us to feel at home in Tokyo our first few nights.
At the end of the trip we stayed at The Millennials, which is a Tokyo Capsule Hotel in Shibuya. This place was an awesome experience. Keys were iPods, rooms were just the size of beds and they served free beer and coffee throughout the day. This is a really fun experience for a solo traveler or for one night as a group. The bathrooms here are shared, but very nice and the even provide an amenities bag upon arrival.
EAT
The food in Japan is fantastic and exotic, but of high quality and very safe, so be adventurous! Sushi and sea creatures are endless and should be enjoyed as often as possible in this sea locked nation. Also ramen and other noodle dishes like soba and udon are great for all meals. Sake is a must, and the Japanese beers do not disappoint.
This trip we went absolutely wild with our dining, on a mission to soak in every part of the Japanese cuisine experience. We kicked off the trip with shabu-shabu, better known as hot pot, at a wonderful chain called Mōmō Paradise Kabukicho. From here we explored the wonderful world of Golden Gai for visits to some miniature bars. This region is described as a district of narrow, winding alleys & numerous snug taverns that form a strangely inviting corner of Shinjuku.
The next day we feasted on snacks and sushi around the fish market and had an amazing lunch of fresh fish, octopus, fruits. For dinner that night we indulged in another Japanese tradition– bar food! This is better known as an izakaya. We found an absolutely amazing one that had perfected chicken in all forms in Shinjuku. I am not 100% sure of the name, but it looked to be Marudori Ruisuke or のだぴん. Either way, it was an incredible meal with more raw eggs for dipping and cold beers then hit Piss Alley for more tiny bars. Before rolling out we hit Ramen near our Airbnb at a great place called Zundo-Ya. This place is open 24 hours in Shinjuku and is worth hitting for dumplings as well.
On our way back through town we hit our final cuisine, meat on sticks– yakitori! We found a wonderful place for this in Roppongi Hills called Joumon. We had chicken meatballs, smoked cheese, vegetables, seafood, pork belly, lamb, and some wonderful roasted avocado and eggplant side dishes. This place was super popular so we could not get a table until 10 PM, but had drinks next door. It was fantastic!
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