Bosnia was a country I knew very little about aside from memories of hearing about it on the nightly news as a child in the ’90’s. Since we were road tripping the Dalmatian Coast, I thought this would be a good time to check this country out that is well off the beaten tourist path yet home to a few special attractions. 

EXPERIENCE

Bosnia surprised us from the moment we crossed over the Croatian boarder. We could not believe how sparse the population was, we drove for nearly an hour along windy, narrow highway until we finally passed another vehicle. The small towns in the countryside are very quaint and simple. One would think this country was untouched since the Medieval times if not for the evidence of wartime ruin at nearly every turn. 

Our first stop in the country was to Kravice Waterfalls. This waterfall us unique in that is is really many small waterfalls coming together as a river which creates a nice lake. The water here is cold but swimming is allowed and there are a few casual eateries on the water. This feels like a local destination. I am curious to compare it to the much more popular, Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia, which is of a similar style. This destination was surprisingly fun and felt like a secret find after all the remote driving.

From here we moved onto Mostar, which is smaller than Sarajevo but we heard from others, quite similar. We stayed outside of the old town, Stari Most, but spent the majority of our time there. The must-do activity here is a walk across the Old Ottoman Bridge on the Neretva River. This bridge is spectacular, hardly crowded at all, and stunning in both the daylight and night lights. We spent some time walking around this relaxed and tame part of the city which is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are several museums here which I am sure are nice if one has more time.

The vibe in Bosnia is quite Muslim, very relaxed and overall just quiet. I got the sense of the history the country has recently endured from the tone and demeanor of the people. The economy is quite depressed and that can be felt everywhere you travel here. We ended our stay here with an evening watching the World Cup at tables and a television projector set up in front of a small bar with about thirty locals. Our experience here felt especially authentic and genuine. 

EAT

Meat is the central focus of the Bosnian cuisine, with a focus on beef and lamb. Large platters of various meats and french fries or rice seem to be the standard fare at all restaurants. We got recommendations from our bed and breakfast host to prioritize Tima-Irma and Hindin Han. We went with Hindin Han and had a really nice meal at a table nestled in romantic Stari Most and overlooking a smaller offshoot of the Neretva River. 

For breakfast, our accommodation prepared a lovely meal. The highlight was ten different homemade jams that were each made with fruits from the owners’ garden and orchard on the property. What a treat!

STAY

Bosnia is quite rough around the edges but I cannot recommend our Aurelia Bed and Breakfast anymore, this place was fantastic and really made the trip. The owner is incredibly lovely and took very good care of us with fresh coffee, directions around town and even a private place to park the car. We had so much fun learning a bit more about Bosnia with him at breakfast. His place hosts 6 rooms of guests at a time and is truly a special oasis when in Mostar!

We loved our time in Bosnia, though I’m not sure we will hurry back anytime soon. I’d imagine tourism will continue to increase here and I’d love to remember it just as we experienced it, a little hideaway that remains in Europe.