I’ve had my ear to the ground on Detroit for a few years now after seeing some images of the Heidelberg Project. This glimmer of hope and transformation caught my attention after years of NPR stories about the economic collapse of this once great American auto epicenter. For having shrunk to a quarter of it’s original size and dropping to the bottom of the median income charts for large cities, I was so curious to see how this city was getting by. It was nice to finally snag a free weekend to make the trip up north and check it out for myself. There is a rebirth and renaissance taking hold as daring and bold creative people flock here, finally unburdened from the astronomical rents and minuscule spaces of Brooklyn, Chicago and San Francisco. What they are cooking, making and mixing is raw and authentic. For being late to the party, Detroit is delivering anything but a “me too” take on re-gentrification. This is some of the most energized, edgy and emotionally rich culture I have witnessed in America.

EXPERIENCE

While our main event was restaurant hopping, we managed to get a few other things in while in this evolving city. We stayed in Hamtramck and enjoyed observing the blocks and blocks of abandonment as we commuted between the main drags of Corktown, Midtown and West Village. Next trip I’d love to make it up to Ferndale and check out the art market called the Rust Belt while up that way.

Eastern Market

On Saturday we really enjoyed the popular attractions of the Eastern Market, the Heidelberg Project and Motown Museum. Book ahead if you plan to go to the Motown Museum, it is the house where the Jackson 5, Marvin Gaye, Smokey Robinson, the Tops, Stevie Wonder and many more recorded all their famous hits. Impressive for unique reasons, all these stops are worth a visit. Places we will have to save for next time are Fox Theater, Mexicantown (specifically Lupita’s tacos) and the Detroit Art Museum.

There is a wonderful creative movement happening in Detroit as up and coming artist and artisans flock to the low rent market. Because of this, shopping made the to do list while here. Some favorites included the Shinola flagship store (since factory tours are on week days only), Nest, Hugh, Nora, Salt + Cedar, Germack Pistachio Company and City Bird.

On Sunday, before leaving town, we crossed over to Belle Isle. Sadly, the island was in disrepair and just lacked the beauty expected of a place with this name. It was nice to see many folks enjoying the conservatory and beaches despite their condition, but it was another testament to the challenges still ahead for Detroit. From here we meandered north to Lake St. Clair. This was a lovely lake that was bustling with family reunions and cookouts, more like the other places in Michigan I’ve visited in the past.

STAY

We stayed in a very cute Airbnb in the Hamtramck neighborhood of Detroit. This part of town was described to us as a city within a city. It was originally a very Polish and eastern European part of town but has since become much more of a Muslim neighborhood. We stayed on a quite street and had the chance to check out some of the local restaurants while here. The favorite seems to be Polish Village Café and drinks at Bumbo’s. Other places worth noting in the neighborhood are Yemen Café, Kebob House and Zen Center.

Midtown Detroit

It’s worth noting, that had my eye on a wonderful spot called Honor and Folly for a homestay. I will need to plan better next visit to snag a spot.

EAT

Food was quite possibly the highlight of our weekend! I was incredibly impressed with the culinary scene in the city and my only regret was not having time for more meals. Highlights included dinner at some of the cities hottest spots: Chartreuse and Seldon Standard. These meals were fantastic and fairly priced. Some of our favorite spots for drinks included Gold Cash Gold, Katoi and Motor City Wine.

Our brunch picks were a popular new vegan joint in the West Village called Detroit Vegan Soul followed by Yeman Street Café which is a pop up spot in Hamtramck. These were both nice experiences but I cannot rave about the food. If we return I’d hit Gold Cash Gold, Honest John’s, Brooklyn Street Local, The Fly Trap or the patio at La Dolce Vida for a brunch meal.

There are many places that were recommended to us by our hosts and friends that we will have to save for next trip. Included in that list is: Cafe D’Mongos Speakeasy, Astro Coffee and Mexicantown eats.

I look forward to returning to Detroit for another weekend trip soon. Next visit I’d love to check out more restaurants and hit the attractions we just didn’t have time for in two days. Until then, I’m left with a quote I saw tagged on the back of a bench in Heidelberg Project, “Say nice things about Detroit.”