Shanghai is ginormous! Shanghai was my first visit to Asia, so in addition to the size, this trip carried with it that initial culture shock of visiting an Eastern land for the first time. I think Shanghai reigns as the most impressive modern Asian experience for me. It serves as a spectactle of the power of human beings to change the landscape, this is equally impressive and saddening. Shanghai is in the midst of preparing to host the 2010 World Expo, so in addition to the usual growth and expansion, several very impressive new construction efforts are underway.

I am expanding this post six years after my first visit which was in 2009. This addendum to my original post offers additional perspective and much higher resolution photos- wow how quickly digital cameras have evolved. (I’ll delineate these second visit thoughts via a color change in the type.) It’s startling to read this original post and realize how much less enthused I was to visit this on trip versus my first visit. I have been back to Asia many times since 2009 including a trip to Guangzhou just three weeks ago. I’ll admit, for this trip I arrived tired, and without my typical aggressive adventerous spirit. Once the jet lag wore off however, I was able to hit the street and explore the city with some of the tenacity that my first experience delivered. The highlights of this trip were not so much in seeing the sights, but in developing a deeper understanding of modern Shanghainese culture by spending lots of time in homes with local families. I am struck by how much this place has changed, and how much I have changed since my last visit.

Shanghai Life

EXPERIENCE

While in Shanghai I got around mostly by foot or taxi. The city is sprawling and public transportation was difficult due to the language barrier. Often times a good trick for getting to destinations efficiently was to ask the hotel to write down my stops on cards I could present to taxi driver, which still proved spotty at times, since many taxi drivers were not literate in Mandarin or Cantonese either. There is lots to do in Shanghai, though taking in the energy of the city and scurry of the people is most exhilarating. 

Nanxiang Old Town Shanghai

It is difficult to miss the pollution while in Shanghai, and if you have not noticed, you will certainly after a trip up the iconic Oriental Pearl TV Tower. This is a must do, despite being very touristy. A walk on the Space Deck allows for a lay of the land and reality check on the impact industrialization is taking on the landscape. This spot also offers views of China’s largest cargo port on the Yangtze River Delta. This is near the Bund, another hot spot for walking around and experiencing the glamour of Shanghai. Nanjing Road however is probably most famous for this. Buzzing with noise and lights, I would recommend a stroll after dark. 

While exploring be sure to visit Old Shanghai, for a throw back to what you may imagine China looked like in the movies. It is extremely ornate and is now home to lots of street vendors you can watch prepare food. The Yu Yang Gardens are nearby and just beautiful to walk through, if possible tag on to a tour to get better understanding of the extensive symbolism behind just about every plant, tree, shrine and fixture. If you are in the mood for a more offbeat adventure, ask a cabbie to take you to the Dongtai Road Antique Street. I visited here alone and was the only Westerner in sight, but really enjoyed seeing the roads and alleys of antiques being traded, apparently there are occasionally some real treasures sold for near pennies here.

Coy Pond Frenzy at Yu Yang Gardens

To contrast the speed of the city, are many serene urban parks. Fuxing Park was a charming surprise to me, as I came across many locals doing fitness and belting out Chinese Opera around sunrise. The older men are especially charming, as they bring their caged birds to join them, and hang in a tree while they practice morning stretching. Other quiet spots to check out include Jing’An Buddhist Temple and Jade Buddha Temple.

This trip I was finally able to check out the Bund. This is a lovely place to walk and then grab a cocktail. This was under construction last time I was here but I was thrilled to finally see this spectacular view. Our work office also offered spectacular daytime views of the Pearl Tower and the Financial District which made the long days of meetings much nicer. I revisited the Yu Yang Gardens and the Nanxiang Old Town this trip but it felt incredibly touristy and was not too well kept or tranquil. The Nanjing Road East had also changed quite considerably since 2009. This area was full of Western Stores, well paved and had more of a Times Square feel than anything uniquely Chinese. I left here a little disappointed and saddened that as the world develops it seems to become more and more homogenous. On our final day, we spent much of our free time meandering the streets of the French Concession District and walking the quaint and eclectic shopping streets of Tian Zi Fang. I was hoping to make it to the M50 Art District, but ran out of free time to do so- I’ll put this on the list for if there is a third visit in the future. 

Street Scenes in the French Concession

STAY

I honestly do not remember the name of the hotel I stayed in while here, nor does it matter. If you are willing to pay even a moderate price you will be treated like royalty with service beyond expectation and endless buffets that are almost baffling in their diversity of cuisine.

On my second visit I stayed at the Ritz Carlton Pudong on Nanjing Road West. While this hotel is a bit outdated, the service was impressive, the breakfast was great and the location lends itself to all the energy of Shanghai’s version of New York’s 5th Avenue consumerism. We happened to be visiting during Shanghai Fashion week, so Nanjing Road and the convention center which were nearby were bustling with activity day and night. While I have a more discerning expectation of hotels five years later, I continue to be in awe of the Chinese hotel breakfast buffets.

Birds Eye from the Financial District

EAT

Being my first trip to Asia, I really went wild. I was traveling with many Chinese coworkers who took us to some of their favorite spots for traditional tea and local delicacies. Our friend took us to a fun Seschuan-style restaurant that had a acrobatics and a changing face dancing event going on. This made for good dinner entertainment for the group. Some of our most exotic dishes included items names “Seahorse Bull’s Penis Cup”, “Turtle Lines Burned Children” and “Explodes Fries Pig Intestine with Shanxia”.  Its often difficult to tell if what you have ordered has just fallen victim to an unfortunate translation or is really as mysterious as it sounds. Regardless, its a good adventure if you focus on the flavors instead of the ingredients. 

We had another memorable Shanghai-ese style meal in the posh area of town called Xin Tian Di. This is a great place for higher end meals. Everything is served family style at these type of meals in China, which allows for opportunities to try just about everything. One last place to enjoy a modern, yet authentic secluded dinner is Moganshan Road in the artist district. We actually had Japanese food here, and ate hot pots here that were pretty unforgettable.

Frog Legs, Hunan Style

On my most recent visit I had the opportunity to taste Hunan regional cuisine, this was quite spicy and included some exotic meats like frog legs, jellyfish and pork feet. We had a traditional Chinese dinner near the Bund where we enjoyed lots of mysterious dishes ranging from eel to tofu to fish head soup. We followed up dinner with a roof top cocktail at the Bund 18. This is a great place to take in the view if you go early and can avoid the high prices. Aside from this we enjoyed many great new spots close to the hotel, on Nanjing Road West. We were impressed with the range of trendy global cuisine, certainly an evolution since my last visit.