Yangon (Rangoon)
Yangon (Rangoon) may seem like a necessary evil as the corridor to the adventures of rural Myanmar, but it has a few sights and experiences of its own worth taking in while you pass through.
EXPERIENCE
Yangon is overwhelming upon arrival just like many of Asia’s major developing cities. Here you are struck with the exotic feel of what makes Myanmar different than other countries that have longer been exposed to Western culture. The traditional longhi dress worn by men and the natural sunscreen face paint on women, are consistent among most locals. The air feels hot, humid and dirty and the streets are lively, yet not over run with motorbikes as you may have experienced in Vietnam. Apparently the bikes are illegal after as an esteemed political figure’s loved one was in an accident, which makes walking the streets somewhat less precarious.
While here, be sure to visit Shwedagon Paya. This is likely the most impressive and gargantuan pagoda I have ever visited. Adorned in gold, this thing is absolutely sprawling. It is a home to tourists, locals, and monks alike. While walking around barefoot, you will see temple after temple housing more gold and more buddhas. Some of the temples have a Thai architecture feel, others feel more like what I experienced in Nepal with broad bases and steep conic tops. Walk the temple clockwise, I’d suggest a sunset visit if possible to see the light change on the gorgeous mirrored mosaics and glistening gilded spires.
The other must do while in here are the street markets. During the day, visit Bogyoke Aung San Market. This place is lined with product and food vendors and houses countless stalls of textile and souvenir type retail. It is somewhat overwhelming to walk through, but worth a visit. Be sure to bargain! The Anawrahta Road Night Market is one of the most impressive I have seen in Southeast Asia. Hopping with activity and a spectacle of ready to eat food, this is a sensory adventure. Lots of fresh fruits, including jack fruit and durian line the streets. The other temptations included many fried items, crickets, any animal part imaginable skewered on a stick, and piles of salted fish. See how brave you feel and maybe even have dinner out here one night 😉
Aside from walking the streets and taking in the local color, we also caught a movie near out hotel while here. The air conditioning was a nice relief and it proved to be a great cultural experience, quail eggs as snacks, metal detractors, and assigned seating caught us off guard. This was especially humorous since in all of our internal flights there was no assigned seating and close to nonexistent security.
STAY
On my trip to Myanmar we passed through Yangon on the way in and out of the country. We opted to stay at the East Hotel which worked out great. This place was across the street from the well known Trader’s Hotel, but much less expensive. They had a decent egg or pancake breakfast in the morning and internet access (not so common in this country). The hotel is within walking distance to a great restaurant, a rooftop bar, the night market and an English movie theater. We prearranged transfers from the airport.
EAT
Despite being adventurous eaters, I will not lie — we had a tough time in Yangon. It was hard finding places that looked even remotely safe or appealing to eat in as we walked the streets. Often times the street food looked like the best bet. This proved to be great stop to pick up fruits and fried items, though we were a little more cautious with the seafood and skewered animal parts. Our favorite restaurant by far in the city ended up being right near our hotel, a thai spot called Suzuki Cafe. This place served amazing soups and curries, we enjoyed it so much, we visited twice!
Another favorite spot was the high up Thiripyitsaya Sky Bistro. This spot did not have great food or service but afforded us a great lay of the land and view of the city lit up at night, a nice last evening to our trip and farewell to Myanmar.